Beetle Kill Mania or New Mexico Redux

Hi all, writing today from Steamboat Springs, the last town stop in CO (woohoo!).  After this, things are downhill for a bit, literally, as the trail heads into Wyoming and the Great Divide Basin, a huge desert where the divide splits apart, leaving a rain-shadowed depression where water is at a premium.  I'm already reminiscing about the days of abundant streams and eating snow, though it will be nice to escape the touristy-ness (and expense) of the towns down here. 

Once again I missed an update in Grand Lakes, so I'll try to make up for things here.  The path from Silverthorne started out easy enough, but quickly became a challenging series of steep climbs with little real trail to speak of.  It seemed to stick to the physical divide as much as possible, which makes for some crazy views, but also increases the difficulty as there was little tread to follow; often one is walking one talus and loose scree for long stretches, making for slow and tiring going.  Furthermore, the water sources are often far below the track, making for uncertain rehydration, which is always important at altitude anyway.  Lastly, it also increases the danger from thunderstorms, particularly in the summer.  I have lucked out for the most part and was only held up by weather on the ridge once so far, but it always pays to be cautious in those circumstances.  The last leg into Grand Lakes was particularly interesting, as I went from a campsite above treeline at 13,000 feet overlooking the lights of Denver one night, along a cloud-shrouded ridge the next morning, and down to a series of large lakes at (relatively) low elevation that afternoon.  I was even treated to some free food and good conversation at the Little Moose Trading Post, a small campground store that hooks up the thru hikers as they pass on towards more civilization.

The final jump into Grand Lakes was a bit of a downer, unfortunately, as a particular stretch is inundated with downed trees, the continuing result of a massive infestation of invasive bark beetles that has affected the whole state.  The trail was completely wiped out, and fighting through the tangle of debris and shrubery was an arduous task that sapped yet more time.  I'd say it would be nice to see it cleared sooner, but given that the state is busy fighting several massive forest fires, that probably isn't high on their to-do list.  Fortunately, Grand Lakes more than made up fo the difficulty as I stayed at the awesome Shadowcliff Lodge and Hostel, situated in a massive wooden building above the town and overlooking the several lakes in the area.  At only $23 a night for a bunk, it was a pretty sweet deal.  I even got to tag along with the staff when they went to a nearby hotspring in a ravine, complete with a great cliff jumping spot.  Good times.

Leaving town, the trail gives hikers a decision; either take the expedient route, which heads straight northwest, or take a long, scenic loop through Rocky Mountain Nation Park which is directly adjacent to the hostel.  Not one to pass up exploring a good view, I took the long way.  It heads one creek, passing meadows and waterfalls on the way, tops out on aptly named Flattop Mountain, and heads down another drainage much like the first.  The most striking sight was the huge clouds seen on the horizon from the Fort Collins fire burning to the northeast.  Thankfully, the prevailing winds and several barren ridges seperated us from the conflagration, but a helpful woman in town reminded me of the danger of getting caught in a sudden, lightning induced fire.  Thanks bunches!

Ironically, once out of the park the trail takes a quick turn for the worst as it heads through several clear cut areas.  Its a jarring juxtaposition, one that mercifully only lasts for several miles.  Once back on the divide, the views open up again, giving some last views back towards the lakes and the park beyond.  The next few days were another series of strenuous up and downs oscillating above treeline.  The climb up Parkview Mountain in particular was a butt kicker, but I was treated with several amazing ridgetop campsites that offered perfect sunrise views.  The real highlight however was a rare mountain lion sighting a few mornings ago.  Even though I only saw him for a second before he booked into the trees, it was awesome to finally see such an elusive creature, particularly when one sees signs of their comings and goings so often.  Regardless of what I know about them, and their extreme reluctance to attack adult humans, I still found myself looking over my shoulder for the next few miles. 

The last bit here into Steamboat Springs offered fewer things to be rave about, unfortunately.  As the trail leaves the high mountains, it once again encounters private ranchland, which supersceded the desire of hikers and resulting in some ugly reroutes; the path to town includes many miles of asphalt walking.  It seems that I am in for some more long stretches of road from here into southern WY before the real funs begins again in the Wind River Range and Yellowstone beyond.  For the moment I am enjoying this last luxurious town stay, but much still awaits.  Next stop is Rawlins, 150 miles or so away, talk to you all later!