Friday, July 25, 2008
Forgot My Swimsuit...
Sitting here in the Comfort Inn in Lincoln/ Woodstock NH with mom and grandpa here for some traveling fun and it defintely feels good to be inside for a bit. Just saw the new Batman movie as well, and yes, its incredible. Not just the movie, but the fact that I am dry and my clothes no longer smell like mildew. The trail through NH has been largely underwater due to heavy rains for the past few days, but thankfully that has cleared up and it looks like clear hiking right now. I don't just mean a little water; I'm talking puddles a foot deep in places and small waterfalls coming down slopes. After a few minutes walking in such conditions, you just give up trying to stay dry and then the fun of splashing through the wettness for 8 hours sets in. Even sleeping damp becomes somewhat normal, though admittedly I did get to cheat a lil', knowing that I'd get a day in town. Redgardless, I have the hard stuff to look foward to for the next few days, and in muddy conditions to boot. Fully rested, restocked and removiefied, its time to finally tackle the White Mts. and enjoy the awsome views. Even from down below the mountains look impressive, so a few good views from the top will make it all worthwhile. Just gonna soak up the relaxation for the minute, then begin the final push!
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
4 States in One
Wow, um, so I guess the last time I posted was in NJ. And now its VT. And almost NH. Sorry about that, you know how busy things can get out here...
Where to start? Once again, I have to be brief, so just another quick rundown I'm afraid. NY was tougher than expected, lots of quick ups and downs coupled with poorly blazed trail and ample rock climbing made for some very tired shoulders. The trail passes close to some parks popular with city vacationers, and seeing as I was passing by on the 4th of July weekend, the area was packed with loads of picinickers making a mess of the place. Fortunately I had a good private seat atop Bear Mt for the fireworks from several towns, which was followed by a trip through a zoo complete with a Walt Whitman statue and some quotes from "The Song of the Open Road", a strangely emotional experience. A quick side trip into Stormville, the home of a regularly occuring flea market that my mom and I sometimes visit wasa nice change of pace as well.
Next came a trip over the Hudson and on into CT. Despite having grown up there, I'd never actually set foot on the trail in the state, much to the consternation of the other hikers looking to glean info on its terrain. I was pretty happy with how it shaped up, with fairly easy climbs but nice views and lengthy walks along the Husatonic river. I was fortunate enough to get to hang out with my cousin Becky at her house near Salisbury, where she works at a horse stable. Mom came to hike for a day and a half and put in a solid 18 miles over Bear Mt (a different one :-P) and into MA, where we met my brother and had a nice lunch. I consider myself very lucky to have such support and hospitality that I can draw on, and try to spread things around whenever I can. The hills have been becoming more severe, a prelude to the White Mts which have been hanging over our heads, and this next state was the beginning of the tranistion. The towns which we've been passing have been frequent and well placed however, and with home so close, I haven't had to worry about resupply lately. As such, MA seemed to fly by.
VT has been amazing so far, and I'm glad to have finally slowed down to some degree. The Green Mts here are challenging enough, but there are harder peaks to climb yet, and harsher weather to boot. Regardless, it is all worthwhile to see the pristine mountain lakes, the great views from atop firetowers on wood shrouded hilltops, and the ever changing flora and fauna. Oh, and the ice cream. VT has some sweet scoop shops with locally made stuff, very choice. Furthermore the pool of hikers has been more diverse; the AT runs concurrent with the Long Trail, a path running from the MA border up to Canada, for about 100 miles, and as such we've met alot of new hikers there. Even more exciting are the southbounders which have been passing in waves. At every opportunity we seem to be grilling each other for the best places to stay and eat, as well as any other valuable info. It doesn't always quite work out so smoothly, as is evidenced by my stay at a hostel in Rutland run by a very friendly, if slightly cultish, Christian community that resulted in some awkward situations. Lets put it this way; I don't dance well to any music, much less joyfull piano musicwith religious singing in the background.
Having passed the 1700 mile mark, I will say my body is starting to get a little tired. While the hiking can get easier, it never truly get easy, and from what the southbounders have to say, its going to start getting very tough indeed. Thankfully, the payoffs more than make up for the effort and we'll soon be heading into the most stunning part of the trail. Hopefully I won't get so lax again, hope everyone is doing well!
Where to start? Once again, I have to be brief, so just another quick rundown I'm afraid. NY was tougher than expected, lots of quick ups and downs coupled with poorly blazed trail and ample rock climbing made for some very tired shoulders. The trail passes close to some parks popular with city vacationers, and seeing as I was passing by on the 4th of July weekend, the area was packed with loads of picinickers making a mess of the place. Fortunately I had a good private seat atop Bear Mt for the fireworks from several towns, which was followed by a trip through a zoo complete with a Walt Whitman statue and some quotes from "The Song of the Open Road", a strangely emotional experience. A quick side trip into Stormville, the home of a regularly occuring flea market that my mom and I sometimes visit wasa nice change of pace as well.
Next came a trip over the Hudson and on into CT. Despite having grown up there, I'd never actually set foot on the trail in the state, much to the consternation of the other hikers looking to glean info on its terrain. I was pretty happy with how it shaped up, with fairly easy climbs but nice views and lengthy walks along the Husatonic river. I was fortunate enough to get to hang out with my cousin Becky at her house near Salisbury, where she works at a horse stable. Mom came to hike for a day and a half and put in a solid 18 miles over Bear Mt (a different one :-P) and into MA, where we met my brother and had a nice lunch. I consider myself very lucky to have such support and hospitality that I can draw on, and try to spread things around whenever I can. The hills have been becoming more severe, a prelude to the White Mts which have been hanging over our heads, and this next state was the beginning of the tranistion. The towns which we've been passing have been frequent and well placed however, and with home so close, I haven't had to worry about resupply lately. As such, MA seemed to fly by.
VT has been amazing so far, and I'm glad to have finally slowed down to some degree. The Green Mts here are challenging enough, but there are harder peaks to climb yet, and harsher weather to boot. Regardless, it is all worthwhile to see the pristine mountain lakes, the great views from atop firetowers on wood shrouded hilltops, and the ever changing flora and fauna. Oh, and the ice cream. VT has some sweet scoop shops with locally made stuff, very choice. Furthermore the pool of hikers has been more diverse; the AT runs concurrent with the Long Trail, a path running from the MA border up to Canada, for about 100 miles, and as such we've met alot of new hikers there. Even more exciting are the southbounders which have been passing in waves. At every opportunity we seem to be grilling each other for the best places to stay and eat, as well as any other valuable info. It doesn't always quite work out so smoothly, as is evidenced by my stay at a hostel in Rutland run by a very friendly, if slightly cultish, Christian community that resulted in some awkward situations. Lets put it this way; I don't dance well to any music, much less joyfull piano musicwith religious singing in the background.
Having passed the 1700 mile mark, I will say my body is starting to get a little tired. While the hiking can get easier, it never truly get easy, and from what the southbounders have to say, its going to start getting very tough indeed. Thankfully, the payoffs more than make up for the effort and we'll soon be heading into the most stunning part of the trail. Hopefully I won't get so lax again, hope everyone is doing well!
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Summer Slowdown
I'm in Vernon, NJ, at the moment, taking a break and beating the heat of the day at the church hostel here. Now that home is a mere few hours away and summer vacation has started, I'll be seeing more family, and so I've decided to slow down...just a bit. Hopefully this will make it a lil' easier to meet up with people, and give me more time to take advantage of the berries in season, oh yeah! On that note, I'm hoping to hit Bear Mt, NY, on the 4th, where supposedly one can see the NYC skyline and the fireworks. After that, a quick side trip to the Stormville Flea Market with mom for some good ole' junk scouring, then on to CT. NJ in the meantime has been surprisingly wonderful-- few rocks, level terrain, nice ridgeline views, lots of bears, and a cool boardwalk through a huge swamp, all in a tiny state with just 72 miles of trial. The new shoes I picked up in Delware Water Gap are taking some getting used to, but aside from that the trail is going fine and the weather has been the usual summer sun/thundershower mix. As usual, hope everyone is feeling well, talk to you later.
Sunday, June 29, 2008
PO'ed in PA
Ok, so I'll admit, I cribbed this title from a series of comics drawn by this guy "Butters" on the trail. He leaves them in every trail register and they're pretty consistently hillarious, so I figured I borrow it for today. Its hard to believe that the last time I posted was in Harper's Ferry, WV, yet now all the sudden I am here at the end of Pennsylvania, and none too soon either. We're all tired of the state and its near constant rocks, though there are few hills or other major challenges to get in the way. The terrain in PA was one of the trail rumors everyone's been hearing about for hundreds of miles, and they don't disappoint. While the worst bits didn't start until a few days ago, my feet have been getting roughed up with every mile of walking. But, instead of complaining, I'll just go back to the beggining and spare you.
After the long haul through VA, the states of West Virginia and Maryland blew by like a breeze. After leaving Harper's Ferry, we got a nice stroll along the C&O canal path, the same trail that heads through Georgetown in D.C. It was nice and relaxing, with the Potomac on one side and the tranquil canal on the other, but once again made me miss the city. We had a few parting glances from the cliffs back down the river before heading into MD, which was full of Civil War history and old momuments, including a small stone one to George Washington. Nothing to rival its bigger cousin, but something cool to see anyway.
We passed into PA, which started benignly enough with some easy ridge trail that gave way to the farms of the Cumberland Valley. State parks were sprinkled along the way, including the milestone Pine Grove Furnace Park, where the official half-way point is located. Its also the home to the "Half Gallon Challenge", where hikers routinely down a box of ice cream in a minor gastronomic feat that inevitably leaves one sprinting for the bathroom (chocolate chip cookie dough for me, in a measly 30 minutes; the record is 4:30 or so). The flat land afterward was a bit disorienting, walking across the fields with corn growing on one side and wheat on the left or wading through grass grown head-high, the hills receding for a short time. Luckily the trail passes straight through several towns, including historic Boiling Springs with many preserved buildings and a clear lake in the center. Several of us got to witness a wedding at a gazebo right off the path; the coupled walked down the aisle on the same trail we'd been following for 1,100 miles. Next came Duncannon, a slightly less charming town on the Susquehanna (sp) River, home to the seedy yet legendary Doyle Hotel. In a great stroke of luck, Anastasia came to visit on here way back from a wedding in WV with a friend and we got to have a few drink together. On the other side of the coin, I got an egg thrown at me on the way back to my campsite; a glancing blow to the foot, but annoying none-the-less and asign that not everyone understand that they have something unimaginably cool going right through their home town. I'm eternally gratefull that I didn't grow up in that particular burg.
The rest of the state proceded along ridgelines and down into the river vallys between, passing through Port Clinton and skirting the rememnants of an envirnmental disaster outside Palmerton, where years of zinc mining and smelting left the hills denuded and dead, a wasteland with a view. From there on out, our feet became punching bags, constantly getting beaten and twisted by rocks. I was fortunate enough to fall in briefly with a group of fun people, so at least themisery was shared, and now I've been relaxing the past couple of days with my mom and brother who met up with me in Wind Gap and did some hiking with me today. There's been tons of food, a gradual lessening of the rocks, and some nice downtime and company, as well as some new shoes and gear to take me the rest of the way. Now that the tough terrain is gone for the time being, I should be flying along from one visit with friends and family to another. I'm looking foward to seeing and meeting more people as I go north, the next few weeks should be a fun time... until the White Mountains at least anyway.
After the long haul through VA, the states of West Virginia and Maryland blew by like a breeze. After leaving Harper's Ferry, we got a nice stroll along the C&O canal path, the same trail that heads through Georgetown in D.C. It was nice and relaxing, with the Potomac on one side and the tranquil canal on the other, but once again made me miss the city. We had a few parting glances from the cliffs back down the river before heading into MD, which was full of Civil War history and old momuments, including a small stone one to George Washington. Nothing to rival its bigger cousin, but something cool to see anyway.
We passed into PA, which started benignly enough with some easy ridge trail that gave way to the farms of the Cumberland Valley. State parks were sprinkled along the way, including the milestone Pine Grove Furnace Park, where the official half-way point is located. Its also the home to the "Half Gallon Challenge", where hikers routinely down a box of ice cream in a minor gastronomic feat that inevitably leaves one sprinting for the bathroom (chocolate chip cookie dough for me, in a measly 30 minutes; the record is 4:30 or so). The flat land afterward was a bit disorienting, walking across the fields with corn growing on one side and wheat on the left or wading through grass grown head-high, the hills receding for a short time. Luckily the trail passes straight through several towns, including historic Boiling Springs with many preserved buildings and a clear lake in the center. Several of us got to witness a wedding at a gazebo right off the path; the coupled walked down the aisle on the same trail we'd been following for 1,100 miles. Next came Duncannon, a slightly less charming town on the Susquehanna (sp) River, home to the seedy yet legendary Doyle Hotel. In a great stroke of luck, Anastasia came to visit on here way back from a wedding in WV with a friend and we got to have a few drink together. On the other side of the coin, I got an egg thrown at me on the way back to my campsite; a glancing blow to the foot, but annoying none-the-less and asign that not everyone understand that they have something unimaginably cool going right through their home town. I'm eternally gratefull that I didn't grow up in that particular burg.
The rest of the state proceded along ridgelines and down into the river vallys between, passing through Port Clinton and skirting the rememnants of an envirnmental disaster outside Palmerton, where years of zinc mining and smelting left the hills denuded and dead, a wasteland with a view. From there on out, our feet became punching bags, constantly getting beaten and twisted by rocks. I was fortunate enough to fall in briefly with a group of fun people, so at least themisery was shared, and now I've been relaxing the past couple of days with my mom and brother who met up with me in Wind Gap and did some hiking with me today. There's been tons of food, a gradual lessening of the rocks, and some nice downtime and company, as well as some new shoes and gear to take me the rest of the way. Now that the tough terrain is gone for the time being, I should be flying along from one visit with friends and family to another. I'm looking foward to seeing and meeting more people as I go north, the next few weeks should be a fun time... until the White Mountains at least anyway.
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
1,000 miles and feelin' fine
I'm here at the ATC headquaters in historic Harper's Ferry, WV, having passed the 1000 mile mark sometime earlier today. In addition, we finally passed out of VA, having come some 535 miles through the state. While its not quite the physical half way point, the town still holds a special place for hikers on the trail, and it defitinitely feels good to be here, and to be able to add another state to those finished. The area is beautiful, filled with old buildings and situated on a hill where the Potomac and Shenendoah Rivers converge, and luckily the weather has cleared up after a thunderstorm hit last night. The last few days have been eerily sparse as far as other thru hikers go, so I'll be trying hard to catch up with a few guys who got ahead of me in Front Royal; hopefully they aren't hurrying through the area, as I would like to spend some time in town. With D.C. so close by, NYC approaching, my stay with my sis in Front Royal, and my mom coming to visit soon, I have lots to look foward to in the coming weeks. The states and the miles should be coming fast now, time for the second half to begin!
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Through the Shenendoahs and Beyond
Just saying hi from scenic Front Royal, VA today, the last stop in this state and the end of the Shenendoahs. The last week has been like hiker vacation with easy trail, easy grades and lots of available food from the restaurants scattered throughout the park. Got to meet lots of tourists along the way and educate people about the trail a bit which was fun; its kinda like being famous, but more smelly. Saw a total of 13 bears, countless deer, some woodchuck and racoons, tons of great views and had mostly fair weather. The mountain laurel was out in full force lending its distinct scent to every step, but unfortunately we were a bit early for the blackberries and such which also crowded the trail. I also had the chance to night hike for a bit which really is a different experience, getting to see the lights of civilization coming to life off in the distance from the ridges and with thte clear weather and full monn approaching, will be doing more of that soon. Met some new people as well and passed some others, but after taking a few days off in town here with my sis, I'm sure I'll be seeing them all again soon. Well, gotta run, next stop is Harper's Ferry then on into Maryland and Pennsylvania. Getting closer to home every day, hope to see yall soon.
Monday, June 9, 2008
Strenous Yet Satisfying
Writing to you from Waynesborough VA here on a sunny, breezy day. Alot has happened since my last post, but I might save some of it until I have more time to write.
Just a note, I usually use the word "we" when writing despite the fact that I usually hike solo. This is due to the fact that we all hike the same trail and go ver the same hill, visit the same towns, stay in the same places, etc. Even though I'm not really traveling with anyone in particular, it doesn't feel right to use the word "I", so there you have it.
The biggest challenge so far has been getting over the fact that VA is in fact not very flat. Many past hikers have told us so, but after making repeated 3000 foot climbs in stifling hot weather it has become apparent that that was a hoax. The trail paralles the Blue Ridge Parkway and is often no more than a hundred yards from the smooth, well graded road, yet we have to climb steep and rocky hills with no views; those are reserved for motorists it would seem. Couple that with the near incessant flies, the deteriorating boots, and sky high humidity, and VA has been anything but easy so far.
Regardless of the challeneges though, the trail has been rewarding. Some great views so far have been at McAfee's Knob, an outcropping with 180 degree views and a perfect sunset, as well as Tinker Cliffs, Hay Rocks, and Cold Mountain. Every day has afforded the chance to bathe in some cool creeks and under waterfalls, sample some wild strawberries and honeysuckle and see more deer than I can count. We've camped by mountain ponds filled with peepers, bullfrogs and birds, crossed the longest footbridge in North America over the James River, and met a Trans-Continental cyclist with his own traill stories to tell.
Furthermore, there has been a ton of trail magic lately to ease the hiking burden. At Thunder Hill shelter, a local man was cooking pancakes, eggs, and sausage for 8 hungry hikers, in the rain. Several times people have left coolers with drinks or given rides into town. And best of all, at Hog Camp Gap, shortly after completing a crippling climb in 90 degree weather, we stumbled upon a tailgate party held by past hikers with tons of free food, drinks, and music that lasted all weekend. It was very difficult leaving before the festivities broke up, and as result the last few days have been pretty solitary, with most people in town or at the party.
Next up is Shenendoah National Park, a hundred mile section before coming to Front Royal and the end of VA where I hope to take a day or two off and possibly see some old faces. Geoff, Bad Dinner, Bone Lady, Wild Oats, Tetris, New Guy, Mike, Wookie and Wasabi are all behind me somewhere, but theres 1200 or so more miles to go so I'm sure I'll see them all again sooner or later. It shouldn't be too long before I post again, but take it easy in the mean time.
Just a note, I usually use the word "we" when writing despite the fact that I usually hike solo. This is due to the fact that we all hike the same trail and go ver the same hill, visit the same towns, stay in the same places, etc. Even though I'm not really traveling with anyone in particular, it doesn't feel right to use the word "I", so there you have it.
The biggest challenge so far has been getting over the fact that VA is in fact not very flat. Many past hikers have told us so, but after making repeated 3000 foot climbs in stifling hot weather it has become apparent that that was a hoax. The trail paralles the Blue Ridge Parkway and is often no more than a hundred yards from the smooth, well graded road, yet we have to climb steep and rocky hills with no views; those are reserved for motorists it would seem. Couple that with the near incessant flies, the deteriorating boots, and sky high humidity, and VA has been anything but easy so far.
Regardless of the challeneges though, the trail has been rewarding. Some great views so far have been at McAfee's Knob, an outcropping with 180 degree views and a perfect sunset, as well as Tinker Cliffs, Hay Rocks, and Cold Mountain. Every day has afforded the chance to bathe in some cool creeks and under waterfalls, sample some wild strawberries and honeysuckle and see more deer than I can count. We've camped by mountain ponds filled with peepers, bullfrogs and birds, crossed the longest footbridge in North America over the James River, and met a Trans-Continental cyclist with his own traill stories to tell.
Furthermore, there has been a ton of trail magic lately to ease the hiking burden. At Thunder Hill shelter, a local man was cooking pancakes, eggs, and sausage for 8 hungry hikers, in the rain. Several times people have left coolers with drinks or given rides into town. And best of all, at Hog Camp Gap, shortly after completing a crippling climb in 90 degree weather, we stumbled upon a tailgate party held by past hikers with tons of free food, drinks, and music that lasted all weekend. It was very difficult leaving before the festivities broke up, and as result the last few days have been pretty solitary, with most people in town or at the party.
Next up is Shenendoah National Park, a hundred mile section before coming to Front Royal and the end of VA where I hope to take a day or two off and possibly see some old faces. Geoff, Bad Dinner, Bone Lady, Wild Oats, Tetris, New Guy, Mike, Wookie and Wasabi are all behind me somewhere, but theres 1200 or so more miles to go so I'm sure I'll see them all again sooner or later. It shouldn't be too long before I post again, but take it easy in the mean time.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
